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Late Qing Dynasty Silk Satin Robe with "Forbidden Stitch" and Narrative Roundels

Late Qing Dynasty Silk Satin Robe with "Forbidden Stitch" and Narrative Roundels

Regular price $3,790.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $3,790.00 USD
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This magnificent garment is a Late Qing Dynasty Chinese Silk Embroidered Woman’s Informal Robe (Chenyi). With its generous proportions of 45 x 59 inches, this robe represents the height of Manchu-style elegance from the late 19th century, designed with the characteristic wide, straight sleeves and side-fastening front that allowed for graceful movement and layering.

This robe is crafted from a lustrous cream-colored silk satin ground, a highly prestigious color often associated with the refined tastes of the late Qing elite. The garment is a masterful example of a "narrative" textile, where the embroidery tells a story of scholar-officials and domestic bliss.
Key Visual & Symbolic Elements:
  • Figural Roundels: The body of the robe is adorned with large, circular medallions (roundels) depicting detailed scenes of figures in garden settings. These "Scholar’s Garden" scenes often represent the Four Arts (Music, Chess, Calligraphy, and Painting) or scenes from classic literature like The Dream of the Red Chamber.
  • Forbidden Stitch (Peking Knot): Upon close inspection, the faces and fine details of the figures are rendered in the Forbidden Stitch. This technique involves thousands of tiny, individual knots, creating a texture so intricate it was said to strain the embroiderer's eyes—hence the name.
  • Flora and Fauna: Surrounding the roundels are scattered sprays of Cherry Blossoms (renewal) and Butterflies (joy), executed in a vibrant palette of rose-pink, violet, and varying shades of indigo.
  • Tiered "Lishui" Border: The cuffs and hem are finished with multiple bands of embroidery, including a wide white border featuring miniature landscape scenes and a final dark binding for structural integrity.

Technique and Artistry

The robe showcases a sophisticated combination of Satin Stitch for the broad, colorful petals and Couched Silk for the stems and outlines. The transition between the cream ground and the densely embroidered figures creates a three-dimensional, relief-like effect that catches the light as the wearer moves.

Condition Report

  • Preservation: For a cream-colored silk of this size and age, the ground remains in remarkable condition. Light surface patina and minor age-related "foxing" (small spots) are present but do not detract from the overall visual impact.
  • Structural: The seams and the delicate "frog" closures appear intact, though the silk may be fragile in areas of heavy embroidery.

Historical Significance

Informal robes like the Chenyi were the preferred everyday attire for high-ranking Manchu women. Unlike the rigid, formal "Dragon Robes," these allowed for more personal expression in motifs and colors, often reflecting the specific seasonal interests or literary tastes of the owner.
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